Colorado Oppos, help me find an engineering job! (Please)

"rotundapig" (rotundapig) 03/21/2015 at 12:43 • Filed to: None

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I'm really ready to move on from my current job as an engineer at a dyno company. It's a really interesting job most of the time, but I've had it with their organizational issues and culture. I've been looking on my own for a while, and have had some decent leads and interviews recently, but I really feel like the only way to get your resume seen is to have some sort of inside connection, rather than just submitting it through Monster or equivalent websites.

I've got bachelor degrees in Aerospace Engineering and Spanish Language & Lit. I've been the Applications Engineer for the last 4 years, which has given me experience in sales support, estimating, product design, customer support and commissioning.

I'm looking for something in the Front Range, between Castle Rock and Fort Collins. I'd like to stick with measurement, controls and automation, but I'm really open to anything. Just need a change of scenery. Let me know if you know of openings, or have suggestions of where to look.

Here's some snow (since we can't seem to get any real snow here) and a slidey Audi for your time:

Nibbles > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 13:05

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Have you checked out Ball Aerospace? I worked for 'em for a good while - excellent company.

E92M3 > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 13:10

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Have you looked at Woodward in Fort Collins?

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 13:30

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Well, I can't help you find a job but if by any chance the company you work for is Land & Sea, then perhaps you could help me find somebody who can can help me and my boss figure out how to setup our used engine dyno we just bought. In return, I can promise to ship you a case of your favourite snacks. Or maybe my Abba CD collection.

TheLOUDMUSIC- Put it in H! > E92M3 03/21/2015 at 14:10

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IIRC Woodward Governor built parts for the QEII.

rotundapig > Nibbles 03/21/2015 at 14:54

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I haven't looked there in few years, since I first moved out here. I've heard good things about them.

rotundapig > E92M3 03/21/2015 at 14:56

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I've applied for a few positions there. I think the issue is getting my resume to stand out or having someone there point me to the right person to talk to. I get the feeling that they get a mound of applications for everything.

Nibbles > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 14:57

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I contracted with them for nearly three years back in the aughts. Ever since then I've been looking for another chance in as a fulltime.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/21/2015 at 14:58

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I work for a competitor. We think of Land & Sea as the Harbor Freight of dynos. They are cheap, but may not last. Dynos in general aren't too different from each other, though. Are you in CO?

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 20:04

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Nope I'm way up in Northern Canada. In fact, our Dyno is now the furthest north of any such unit in North America. We bought a used Land & Sea unit for pennies on the dollar and the manufacturer isn't too forthcoming with help unless we spend another 3K on a software upgrade we don't want. My boss really wanted a new Superflow but couldn't justify the 50k price tag for the number of engines our shop builds every year. I'm sure we will figure it out eventually.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/21/2015 at 22:40

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I don't know anything about Land & Sea specifically, but let me know if you have any questions about dynoing in general. I've got a bunch of documents I can give you about test cell setup.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/21/2015 at 22:40

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I don't know anything about Land & Sea specifically, but let me know if you have any questions about dynoing in general. I've got a bunch of documents I can give you about test cell setup.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/21/2015 at 23:54

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We've got our first engine ( approx 500 hp 383 SBC) ready on the dyno that we're hopefully ready to make a pull with next week. Both me and my Boss have spent lots of time reading the manual but it's not that well written and there is a ton of settings in the program that we need to learn how to use. I mean, it's kind of hard to ask for specific help when you're not really sure what you're doing. You don't know what you don't know kind of thing. Although perhaps knowing what type of tests we should be starting out with would be nice. The sweep test and step test kind of look the same. If you really feel like helping a total stranger with information, I'd gladly read whatever you want to send.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/22/2015 at 10:19

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There is a lot to learn, especially if you don't have any experience working with a dyno. Let me know how you want me to send you the documents, and I'll give you a few on reputability, correction factors and test cell conditions.

As far as the sweep vs step test goes, the key difference is that the sweep makes a smooth acceleration and take data the entire time and the step test holds the engine steady at an RPM, takes data, and then lets it "step" to another RPM before taking more data. Each test has it's benefits and drawbacks. The sweep test is the standard for performance customers, especially drag motors, since the test is shorter and many drag engines aren't designed to sit at one RPM under load. The step test is the standard for OEMs, because it is mandated by the SAE and eliminates some variables.

In a sweep test, some of the power generated by the engine is being used to accelerate the mass of the moving parts of the engine, dyno and water in the dyno, and isn't measured. So, the slower your sweep rate is (step test is zero), the higher your power numbers will be.

What I would strongly suggest, is for your first engine, find something that runs well, but isn't anything special, such as a crate motor or truck motor, even if it doesn't have much power. That way, you can run lots of tests and learn without worrying too much about breaking or wearing out the engine. It also helps take some of the stress out of running the dyno, and some of the focus off of the peak power numbers and lets you focus more on how everything is running and how well your tests are repeating.

I'll gladly do whatever I can to help you out. It'd be pretty hypocritical of me to come asking for help and not be willing to lend a hand myself.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/22/2015 at 14:36

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I'll give you an email adress hopefully in a way that the spam bots can't find. It's doerksen1988 at gmail dot com. I really appreciate the help and I don't want to take up your time. If we have a specific problem that I think might be a quick answer for you then I'll shoot you a message. Thanks again for the offer of help and hopefully I can return the favour yet.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/22/2015 at 14:47

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also, the reason we are running this engine is we had on a Superflow unit at another shop and we wanted to see if our numbers would match.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/23/2015 at 10:27

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And yes, if you feel like emailing me some documents please feel free to do so. Thanks for your time and have a good morning. Hopefully your coffee is as strong as mine.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/24/2015 at 14:50

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Sent you a few docs. Good to gauge your measurements against other dynos, but I would get a beater engine to learn about the dyno with, if you can. it really changes the experience having an engine that you aren't worried about at all.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/24/2015 at 15:31

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Thanks. Looks like some nice information in there. I'll let you know how our day goes. We've set aside Thursday morning to wake the neighbors. Good thing we're out in a rural area.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/26/2015 at 12:39

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Well we did our dyno run today. Made a whole lot of noise and some power, but had a specific problem that I thought I'd ask. When our servo valve opens, the water pressure fluctuates wildly for a few seconds then stabilizes at our 3000 hold rpm. We have a big 5hp water pump feeding it, with a manual 3/4 bypass valve to bleed excess pressure. Do we have to regulate the main supply coming out of the pump or can we get away with putting a spring loaded relief valve on the bypass just to keep it from going over 60 PSI?

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/26/2015 at 12:40

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It has an automatic servo valve.

rotundapig > I Will Always Be The Honey Badger 03/26/2015 at 13:37

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I'm really not familiar enough with the Land & Sea to say, but usually, you do need stable water pressure for dynos that feed water straight in to the absorber (902 has a built-in water pump). Regulating the main water supply means you need a big regulator, but either way you can sometimes have issues with the control system fighting the pressure regulator.

Plumbing issues can be tricky, and may be specific to that type of absorber.

I Will Always Be The Honey Badger > rotundapig 03/26/2015 at 13:55

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Ah I didn't know the Superflow dynos had an internal water pump. That would help eliminate variables.